DIY

Recently, I was called upon by a couple who had bought a property with an existing sauna that needed some professional help. The structure was a cordwood affair: a building method where timber framed walls are in-filled with short logs, stacked like firewood, with mortar between them. It looked like it came right out of the pages of Rob Roy’s classic how-to book: The Sauna. The exterior was fairly solid and quaint in a hobbit kind of way, but the interior, in terms of functionality, had some serious flaws. The timber frame and log and mortar walls looked pretty good, but it is obvious that the project was a classic DIY affair: a case of a homeowner taking on a project that looks easy, but with complex details that get skipped due to a lack of knowledge, funds or basic skill.

There are elements to a sauna that are essential: such as a welded steel stove that will not crack or explode when doused with water and the installation of that stove that conforms to the NFPA 311 guidelines. Insulation must be able take the heat, provide proper moisture retention, not attract rodents and not become a health hazard. Doors must open out and have non metal, non-latching hardware and be self closing (ever try to turn a 200° doorknob with sweaty hands?) There must be no varnish or paint in the sauna room; it will only off gas or worse, burn.

This sauna missed all of these points and more. From the pile of starling skeletons in the stove, I can only guess that it has not been used in a very long time (another detail: birds will fly down the chimney only to find themselves in a death trap.)  From the lack of tell-tale scorching or smoking of the wood, I could also tell it had not had been used much. In fact, if it had been fired to a decent, Finnish-approved temperature, I am sure it would have either caught on fire or sent it users scrambling to get out as all of the varnished wood off-gassed.

It is a classic example of a DIY affair: started with good intentions but never finished properly. When I went into the house with the owners to discuss my plans for bringing it back to life, they brought out a book that had been left with the house: a dog eared and highlighted copy of Rob Roy’s: The Sauna.

cordwood construction

The Light in the Sauna

My family name, Licht, literally came from my German ancestors who made candles–the family crest features a candle–so it’s no wonder that I think about lighting a lot.

The most important thing about building a sauna is creating the right atmosphere. It’s not just about temperature, it’s about engaging all of the senses in a soothing way. The sauna is a sweat bath, light therapy, aroma therapy and talk therapy session all rolled into one.

With that in mind I really think about the quality of the light in the sauna room.

Although all sorts of colored LED and optic fiber lights are available I try to avoid any electric lighting; in fact, if it is a traditional wood burning unit, I avoid electricity entirely. Not only it is not needed to run a wood burning sauna, but if there is an electric line to the building then there will a temptation to add outlets and harsh outdoor lighting. The next thing you know, someone is plugging in some beeping device or the light is blotting out the night sky and the whole experience is compromised. What you want is dim light that will let your eyes adjust to the darkness and that will make even the most modest bather feel comfortable, even if their towel happens to slip off. A few candles can be just enough to light the sauna room. The problem with candles is that they will melt in the sauna– even if you don’t light them! To solve this, I install a candle window above the mantle so the candle (or lantern) stays in the dressing room and lights both rooms.

I also consider day-lighting and place windows to allow for natural light without compromising a sense of privacy. When rough framing the windows I leave space so that the window placement can be adjusted to frame the perfect view when seated on the bench (but not the “perfect” view in).

In an electric sauna I will often put a light under the bench, with a dimmer, so that there is no harsh light, only a soft glow that sweeps across the floor. No one wants to stare at a glowing light fixture-which is exactly the situation in most commercial units. Whatever the situation, I work with the light to create just the right ambiance.