I just completed a large 9’x12′ sauna at Silverlaken Glampground near Letchworth State Park. The glampground is an ideal setting for quiet retreats or group gatherings: a main lodge in a historic cottage, private cabins and luxury tents next to sparkling Silver Lake just miles from one of the most popular state parks in New York. The sauna is the perfect centerpiece for small or large gatherings. A group sauna is different from a small intimate home sauna; it creates a unique social situation where you can commune with strangers and make new friends all while stripped bare of the trappings of social status, class, or superficiality. It can be a perfect setting for friends to solemnly celebrate life’s important moments: a reunion, a wedding, a men’s retreat, or whatever occasion that will be enhanced by closeness and shared exhilaration. The sauna easily holds a dozen or more bathers and is a stone’s throw from the lake.
As I always do, I tested the sauna before leaving a finished project. The new owner was elated as I brought it up to temperature and explained the intricacies of sauna; after a round, we jumped in the brisk lake. It was the perfect way to end an exhausting effort and make my long haul home a relaxing one.
If you are in Western New York and looking for a unique place to stay and want a sauna experience, I recommend you check outSilverlaken!
The kiuas, or heater, is the heart of the sauna. In a wood-burner, it is commonly referred to as the sauna stove, but a wood stove it is not! There is a lot of misconception around the kiuas and how it is different from a wood stove that you might use in your house.
First, some history. The modern house stove is really a heating device designed to add comfort to your home while conforming to certain safety and smoke emission rules. Typically they are not used as primary heating appliances, unless you live in a cabin off-grid somewhere. Back in the 70s, during the energy crisis, woodstoves became popular as a way to save money. They were pretty much unregulated and varied in design from a kit that consisted of a door and a flue collar you could slap onto a used fifty-gallon drum, to a more complex Vermont Castings wood stove. Earlier stoves had little control over combustion; these evolved into airtight units that could keep a fire smoldering all night, if not for an entire season. I had one of these highly efficient stoves and didn’t let the fire go out all winter except to clean it. Cleaning the chimneys on these units is an imperative: when wood—especially if it has not been cured for two years—is burned slowly by reducing the combustion air to near nil, creosote forms. This is the result of the wood’s resinous gasses condensing on the inside of the cool chimney walls. As a result of the slow burning, these stoves emit a lot of smoke. After many houses were lost to chimney fires, safety regulations were put into place, and stoves are now required to use catalytic converters to reduce emissions, much like on your car. These regulated stoves require a religious adherence to the use of dry wood, lest your catalytic converter clog up, which they tend to do. Such stoves evolved into today’s models that use a carefully designed system of baffles and airflow to make fires burn efficiently. Now, all wood-burning home heating devices installed in the US must comply with UL (Underwriters Laboratory) safety standards and increasingly stringent EPA standards for particulate emissions. The stoves work well and are very cozy but, by design, they heat up slowly and are not meant to burn all night long not to mention all season long. Because they are intricate designs with interconnected parts, they are all cast iron. The exception is some stoves made in the pre-catalytic converter era, which were welded steel.
So, that is a wood stove. You may find a used one and think you can build a sauna around it, but the truth is, with the rare exception of one of those 70s all welded steel stoves (not the barrel ones!), you can’t. You can build a small hot room with a wood stove, but it will never be a real sauna. Here is why: A sauna stove, or kiuas, is designed to do one thing—heat sauna rocks. It is the hot rocks that heat the sauna and produce bursts of löyly steam, the essence of sauna. Early saunas did not have metal stoves. They did not even have the technology to make a metal stove, all they had was wood, earth, and rocks. The kiuas was essentially a hollowed out pile of rocks that lacked a chimney. A fire was lit within, the room filled with smoke, and after the rocks got hot, the fire was extinguished and the room cleared of smoke via vents and thereafter the rocks heated the room. The closer you can get to that smokey ideal—Savusauna experience—the better.
A sauna stove is not a wood stove; it fires hot and fast, it burns sticks not logs. Its job is to heat rocks. If fired correctly, you will never have to clean the chimney. The appropriate hot fire will combust all of the sticky wood gas and reduce creosote buildup. It is welded steel—can stand up to having water poured over it while red-hot. Cast iron cracks or explodes when subjected to this. It can take the weight of a hundred or more pounds of rocks sitting on top of it when cherry-red. Ferrous metal takes on specific colors when heated. At 1400° F, it is cherry red. At that temperature, an 1/8 inch plate of steel is as malleable as taffy on a hot summer day at the beach. I’ve repaired many sauna stoves with tops that looked like an egg carton from the stones pressing down on the hot metal. So I started making stoves (my Lämpimämpi sauna stove) with 1/2 inch thick plate at the top. I fire my stove so hot that I see dark, cherry-red glow underneath the stones. I swear that sometimes I can read a book by the glow coming off my sauna stove. If you fired your home-heating wood stove like that, you would be crazy. I like to test the limits of my stoves to know they are safe.
When you light a sauna stove, you want to fire it, that is, bring it up to temperature quickly. Use paper and dry kindling and then stuff it full of sticks, not logs (wood scraps from building saunas work great). Because sauna stoves are for intermittent use, they are exempt from the EPA particulate rules. But, the truth is once it gets going after about ten minutes, it should burn so hot that there is no smoke at all. Other than the shimmering light from the escaping heat, I can’t tell if my sauna is heating up by looking at the chimney. House wood stoves are tame devices, meant to be safe. Sauna heaters are another beast. That is why I will never install a wood-burning kiuas in a sauna in the home or attached to a house. Wood-burning saunas do burn down now and then.
If you are building your own wood-burning sauna, you may have a building inspector involved or have to get a wood-burning appliance inspection for your home insurance, and that may require a UL listing. The only heater with a UL label is the Lamppa Kuuma stove. Most others are made for the European or Canadian market, which use different standards. So, before you click on “buy” you should have a conversation with any inspectors involved. They may love the idea of a sauna, or they may think you are crazy to sit in a small hot room and throw water on a red-hot wood stove. In that case, you’ll have to convince the inspector that it’s something that’s been done millions of times without incident. In any case, you will need to make a safe installation of your kiuas. There are clearances and heat shields and floor hearths, none of which can be cheated on, unless you don’t mind owning one of the saunas that burn down. There is also combustion air to consider, which is why I like to fire mine from the outside. The sauna stove sucks up fuel and oxygen, so it’s better to not be sucking the air out of the tiny room you and your friends will be in. This is not such a problem with house wood stoves; although, it is an issue with newer air-tight construction and tiny homes.
So, before you purchase that old wood stove you find on Craigslist, do your research. Think hard about investing in a real sauna stove. The kiuas is not a wood stove. The kiuas is the heart of the sauna.
My stove pipe will get cherry red! After ten minutes, a hot fire should burn clean and smokeless.All stoves will smoke initially.Nothing bigger than your arm!This armload of ash will fire the sauna.Fill the stove and let it burn hot before closing the ash drawer.
My good friend Daniel has come home for a few days so we decided to take the trailer sauna down to Podunk, his family’s homestead, where, as a youth, I was indoctrinated in the way of the sauna. The old shack built by the original Finnish owner of the property has long since gone to the squirrels. But our memories of sauna-ing on cool summer evenings are still as vivid as the lush green canopies of the giant poplar trees that stand as sentinels in the field by the riverbank, keeping the creek from advancing any further as it swishes across the valley. On a geologic scale, the creek—the same that carved the falls at Taughannock—slithers like a snake, back and forth, carving new paths over years and decades. In our short lives, we can remember when it made this turn or that, turning a rocky bank into an inviting swim hole or turning the old dipping spot—the one we would run down to from that old sauna, hooting and hollering—into a rocky shallow.
There is a new swim hole now. It’s an Olympic-sized pool compared to what we used to dip in, allowing for real swimming as opposed to the slow rolls we used to take in the knee deep water just below where the pipeline crosses. As we lay there with our heads pulsing from the effect we called being sauna stoned, minnows nibbled on our fresh cooked skin. With this new hole, the creek is more perfect for a sauna now than it was then.
I parked the trailer just on the edge of the bank and fired it up. The fact that it was close to the creek, where the spring high water often lapped the trunks of the poplars, did not matter; this was a temporary affair, a brief encounter with our youth, a dip into the pool of nostalgia. Once it was hot, we climbed aboard and were transported back in time some forty years. My little stove holds a hundred pounds of rocks, all glacial erratics, transported here by the great river of ice in a time before memory. When heated, those rocks are capable of producing the best löyly, letting off a burst of steam that sends us out the door and clambering down the banks to the sweet cool water of the creek. It’s impossible not to let out a few whoops.
As a respite to the maddening distractions and over-stimulation of our times, people often seek out authentic experiences. There is often an understated desire to eschew technology and the associated flotsam that pollutes our memories of a simpler time. We laugh when we try to remember when phones were attached to the wall and being accessible meant you checked your answering machine only once a day. Life was slower and I don’t think there is anyone over forty who can’t appreciate that. As far as traditions go, not much can beat the sauna, which has a two-thousand-plus year history.
Often, clients come to me seeking some sort of authentic experience—often tied to some childhood sauna at a summer lake-house or a weekly family ritual. They don’t want just an ordinary gym or hotel sauna, they want an experience deeper and more profound, something central to this notion of life slowing down. I imagine sauna as a slow-moving cinematic experience that is the complete antithesis to Godfrey Reggio’s Koyaanisqatsi film about life out of balance. In the sauna, the heat should melt not only the bodily stress of the day but also the sense of time itself. To be authentic, the experience should not follow a prescribed formula but should simply be what naturally evolves in a Zen-like way of intentional non-intention.
What evolves naturally depends upon the built environment. Like cathedrals, which were designed to encourage spirituality, I build my saunas to encourage contemplation. It’s not just the temperature of the room, but the details that your hand or eye will settle on. The arched roof, views out the window, and selected grain of the boards provide visual distraction so your mind can settle into the experience while your body adjusts to the heat. The surfaces, sounds, and smells of the sauna are meant to awaken your senses.
When I am in the sauna I think about this, but I also try to think about nothing! I simply do what comes naturally— sweat, pour water on the rocks, cool down, look at the night sky, repeat, and then wash up. There is no magical order to the ritual, no rules to adhere to; the point is to create your own. I cannot create for my clients an authentic experience, but I can provide the catalyst in the form of a hot little magical space.
The stove, heater, or as the Finns call it, the kiuas is the heart of the sauna. The role of the kiuas is to heat the room. But not like a wood stove, but by heating the sauna rocks, which in turn provide the heat and the löyly, or steam, that make a sauna what it is. In the savusauna, or smoke sauna, which arguably offers the most authentic experience, there is neither stove nor chimney. There is simply a pile of rocks made into a hearth. A fire is burned within (filling the room with smoke) until the rocks are hot. Once the fire is extinguished and the room cleared of smoke, the pile of rocks does its thing. Likewise, any sauna, whether it is wood fired or electric, is only ready when the rocks are hot.
When building a sauna, the choice of heater is important. But the rocks are even more important. A good heater will hold a hundred pounds, and thus, will make good löyly. A cheap heater will provide a few decorative stones, and you will feel like you are sitting in an electric oven. I have seen many well-designed saunas in my years and I have seen many poorly built saunas, as well. The worst use some variant of a cheap wood-burning stove with a dented pot of rubble or brick on top. In the best, the rocks are the focal point, and they get red-hot. Pick one up (with heat-resistant gloves, please) and drop it into a pot of water and you can make tea.
Left: Rocks shipped thousands of miles—only to explode in the sauna! Right: Cayuga Lake beach stones—can you spot the erratics?
The type of rock is critical: they should be igneous in origin, formed deep in the hot earth or in the furnace of a volcano. Think of these rocks as heat loving. Granite, grabbro, and basalt are typical examples. The Finnish and Swedish units might use grey peridotite. Then there is shape: smooth and round potato shaped rocks or jagged and broken pieces. I prefer the smoother rocks, but there is argument for using the jagged (more surface area). You can order a box of the latter from Tylö that will come all the way from Sweden. Once I opened a box to find a nice hand-written note from the fellow who packed them. Another heater company sent me a box from their supplier in Central America. Apparently, they needed a geology lesson. The polished siltstone rocks, once heated, started exploding! If you don’t want to have a box of rocks shipped half way around the world or risk getting impaled by rock shards, you can find your own.
Unfortunately, our local stone, meaning the rock that is cemented to the landscape here in Central New York, makes horrible sauna rocks. It is all sedimentary: shale, limestone and sandstone. Born in the bottom of ancient oceans, these rocks do not love fire and will complain by exploding if thrown into one. By the way, baptism by fire is a good way to test your rocks if geology eludes you—a good rock will happily glow red-hot. Thankfully, the glaciers that plowed through here brought with them piles of stone from places north that serve the sauna well. These are glacial erratics. As the glaciers retreated and melted, these stones were left behind. The resulting floods that carved our landscape left piles of these smoothed rocks (mixed in with plenty of local stone) in deltas, drumlins or moraines. I find them in the local gravel pit, which mines an ancient delta, or along the lake at my favorite park (another delta) when the water is low. Sometimes I take milk crates with me when I travel through the Adirondacks and fill them with potato-sized anorthosite rocks—which is what the moon is made of—and other pretty granites.
More important than the geology is the significance of the rocks. A Finn, even if they are using a heater with rocks packed in Sweden, will add a spirit stone or two: stones that come from home or some other special place. Stones all have distinct place markers and are borne of this earth and tied to a particular landscape. Except erratics. These have been swept from their homes in a geologic diaspora and found new homes as immigrants, oddities, and beautiful accents against the dull grey of the indigenous rocks. Even though I am made of local stone, coming from generations of Central New Yorkers, I have always related to the erratics: the outsiders, the immigrants, the atypical people. They bring us diversity, new culture and traditions like the sauna. In my next sauna, you will certainly find plenty of erractics.
Redhot Adirondack rocks / My Lämpimämpi stove / Stove wall faced with local field stone including shale.
Just beyond the reaches of the village of Trumansburg is the settlement of Podunk. When I was growing up, it was home to some thirty people and a cross-country ski shop. The place was run by Osmo Heila, a Finn, who also sold steam juicers and sauna stoves. Ozzie was an ambassador for all things Finnish. There was a rustic ski lodge, a modest circuit of trails, and a sauna. I was good friends with the family and spent winters there skiing the trails and summers taking saunas and hanging out by the creek.
The original owner of the property, Wilho “Willie” Uitti, was also Finnish, and following tradition, he built the sauna before the house. It was constructed with locally cut wood and with a modest profile. Despite a few upgrades over the years, it maintained a typical Finnish pragmatic aesthetic. New parts were eschewed in favor of jerry-rigged repairs, like the paint can that became part of the stove-pipe. There were a few feminine touches, like curtains in the dressing room, but the sauna room contained only the bare essentials: stove (or kiuas) with its pile of rocks, a water tank heated by the stove, simple benches, and buckets, brushes, and loofas for washing. A window, propped open with a stick, provided ventilation. The spalled concrete floor had a drain and wooden slats, called duck boards, to walk on. The pine wall boards had resinous knots that oozed sap into shapes that made us think of strange creatures, like a speeding weasel. Returning to Podunk in the years after high school, it always seemed the same. The same mementos were in the dressing room, the same plastic buckets were on the benches, and the creatures on the wall had barely moved. But, like the creek meandering behind the sauna, the sauna was slowly changing: being swallowed by the bushes, sinking into the earth, and eroding away.
Taking a sauna consisted of several sessions of heating up, each followed by a cooling down or a plunge into the creek, and lastly, a scrub and a rinse in the sauna room. Afterwards, we relaxed in the house and shared food and drink. Eventually, somebody looked at a clock and we suddenly became aware of the hours that had passed. We called this lost sense of time sauna time.
Applied to everyday life, sauna time means slowing down, stepping away from technology, and observing the subtle changes. It is an appreciation of all that is impermanent. The continuity of life doesn’t come from holding onto things, but from the rituals, traditions, and relationships that one carries in their heart. As the sauna at Podunk slowly degrades into a pile of boards, I am reminded that sauna is much more than just a building and that building saunas is about much more than just carpentry.
