The Kiuas (is not a Woodstove)

Mar 4, 2019

The Kiuas, or heater, is the heart of the sauna. In a wood-burner, it is commonly referred to as the sauna stove, but a wood stove it is not! There is a lot of misconception around the kiuas and how it is different from a wood stove that you might use in your house.

First, some history. The modern house stove is really a heating device designed to add comfort to your home while conforming to certain safety and smoke emission rules. Typically they are not used as primary heating appliances, unless you live in a cabin off-grid somewhere. Back in 70’s, during the energy crisis, woodstoves become popular as a way to save money. They were pretty much unregulated and varied in design from a kit that consisted of a door and a flue collar you could slap onto a used fifty-gallon drum, to a more complex Vermont Castings wood stove. Earlier stoves had little control over combustion; these evolved into airtight units that could keep a smoldering fire all night, if not for an entire season. I had one of these and didn’t let the fire go out all winter except to clean it. Cleaning the chimneys on these was imperative: when wood—especially if it is not cured for two years— is burned slowly by reducing the combustion air to near nil, creosote forms as the result of the resinous gasses condensing on inside of the cool chimney walls. As a result of the slow burning, these stoves emitted a lot of smoke. After many houses were lost to chimney fires, safety regulations were put into place and stoves were required to use catalytic converters, much like on your car, that reduced emissions. These required a religious adherence to the use of dry wood, lest your catalytic converter clogged up, which most of them did. Those evolved into today’s stoves that use a carefully designed system of baffles and airflow to make stoves burn efficiently. Now, all wood burning home heating device installed in the US must comply with UL (Underwriters Laboratory) safety standards and increasingly stringent EPA standards for particulate emissions. The stoves work well and are very cozy but, by design, they don’t get very hot fast, nor are they meant to burn all night long, not to mention all season long. Because they are intricate with interconnected parts, they are all cast iron. The exception is some stoves made in the pre- catalytic converter era, which were welded steel.

So, that is a wood stove. You may find a used one and think you can build a sauna around it, but the truth is, with the rare exception of one of those 70’s all welded steel (but not a barrel!) stoves, you can’t. You can build a small hot room with a wood stove, but it will never be a real sauna; here is why: A sauna stove, or kiuas, is designed to do one thing: heat sauna rocks. It is the hot rocks that heat the sauna, that produce the burst of löyly steam and that are true heart of the sauna. Early saunas did not have a metal stove- they did not even have the technology to make a metal stove- all they had was wood, earth and rocks. The kiuas was essentially a hollowed out a pile of rocks. The fire was lit within, the room filled with smoke, and, after the rocks got hot, the fire was extinguished and the room cleared of smoke and then the rocks heated the room. The closer you can get to that smoke or Savusauna experience, the better.

A sauna stove is not a wood stove; it fires hot and fast, it burns sticks, not logs. It’s job is to heat rocks. If fired correctly, you will never have to clean the chimney- a hot fire will combust all of the sticky wood gas. It is welded steel—which can have water poured over it while red-hot. Cast iron cracks or explodes when subjected to this. It can take the weight of a hundred or more pounds of rocks sitting on top of it when cherry red. Ferrous metal takes on specific color when heated; at 1400° F. it is cherry red. At that temperature, an 1/8 inch plate of steel is as malleable as taffy on a hot summer day at the beach. I repaired many sauna stoves where the top looked like an egg carton from the stones pressing down on the hot metal, so I started making stoves with half-inch thick plate at the top. I fire my stove so hot that I see dark cherry red glowing underneath the stones. If you fired your home heating wood stove like that, you would be crazy. I swear that sometimes I could read a book by the glow coming off of my sauna stove. I like to push the limits so that I know it is safe.

When you light a sauna stove, you want to fire it, that is, to bring it up to temperature quickly. Use paper and dry kindling and then stuff it full of sticks, not logs (wood scraps from building saunas work great). Because they are for intermittent use, they are exempt from the EPA particulate rules but, the truth is, once it gets going—after about ten minutes—it should burn so hot that there is no smoke at all. Other than the shimmering light from the heat, I can’t tell my sauna is heating up by looking at the chimney. House woodstoves are tame devices, meant to be safe. Sauna heaters are another beast; that is why I will never install a wood burning kiuas in a sauna in or attached to a house. They do burn down now and then.

If you are building your own wood-burning sauna, you may have a building inspector involved or have to get a wood burning appliance inspection for your home insurance and that may require a UL listing. The only heater with UL label on it is the Lamppa Kuuma stove; most of the others are made for the European or Canadian market, which uses different standards, so before you click on “buy” you should have a conversation with any inspectors involved. They may love the idea of a sauna or they may think you are crazy to sit in a small hot room and throw water on a red- hot wood stove, in which case you’ll have to convince them that it’s something that’s been done millions of times without incident. In any case you will need to make a safe installation of your Kiuas – there are clearances and heat shields and floor hearths; none of these can be cheated on, unless you don’t mind owning one of the ones that burns down. There is also combustion air to consider- which is why I like to fire mine from the outside. The sauna stove sucks up fuel and oxygen, better to not be sucking the air out of the tiny room you and your friends will be in. Not such a problem with a house wood stove (but with newer air tight construction and tiny homes, it is).

So, before you get that old woodstove you find on Craigslist, do your research and think about investing in a real sauna stove because the kiuas is the heart of the sauna and the kiuas is not a wood stove!

 

  • My stove pipe will get cherry red!
  • After ten minutes, a hot fire fire should burn clean and smoke-less
  • All stoves will smoke initially
  • Nothing bigger than arm your arm!
  • This armload of ash (the wood) will fire the sauna
  • Fill it and let it burn hot before closing the ash drawer
Insulating Electric Saunas

Insulating Electric Saunas

Nov 27, 2017

I get a lot of questions regarding sauna insulating details and thought I’d shed some light on a few issues. A caveat before I start: heat transfer science gets pretty complicated, and I am grossly simplifying things here. I’m not an engineer, I rely on experience and am constantly probing and measuring my own saunas to see what works. A building inspector may want an engineer’s input, but just make sure the engineer understands what happens in a sauna.

If you are building an electric sauna, either in your house or as a stand-alone building, you’ll naturally want to insulate it for efficiency. Normally builders (and building inspectors) think of R-value (printed on every insulation product label) as the golden metric, and the R-values of a wall assembly are typically added up to get a number that either complies with code or satisfies a self imposed trade-off between cost, efficiency and practicality. R-Value is the resistance to heat transfer. But it measures conduction and convection, not radiation, which is not much of a factor at lower temperature differentials. R-values are calculated with normal living spaces and long-term heat retention in mind, which in a typical home is calculated using an average temperature differential of 24°C (between heated and outside space). Since R= Delta T/QA, (where QA is the ability of the material to transfer heat) and in a hot sauna Delta T might be 100°C, the use of labeled R factors is totally skewed!

The second factor is time. Heat loss is measured in BTU/hr. With the sauna only on for a few hours a week (bravo if it’s more!), your heat loss will be minimal, and hopefully, in the cold months it will contribute to heating the house. So, in terms of cost vs. efficiency, a lot of insulation may be overkill.

At the higher temps of the sauna, the radiant effect of heat is more of a factor and the use of a radiant foil barrier comes into play. The heat you feel radiating from a wood stove is the long-wave radiation. This radiation can move through common building materials, but foil stops it dead in it’s tracks. Anyone who has nestled under an emergency blanket or protected themself from the fiery radiation of a blast furnace (like when I pour bronze), understands the effectiveness of foil to bounce radiation back towards the heat source. But if the heat source contacts the foil layer, the aluminum superbly conducts the heat, defeating the purpose. So, when building a sauna, it is the radiant foil layer with an air gap on the hot side that is crucial to holding the heat in. This should be backed by as much standard insulation as is practical, but don’t worry about attaining super R-value. The exception being if the wall is an outside wall of the house and a part of the building envelope. In this case, R-value must be a minimum of what the rest of the house has. I prefer mineral wool, but in any case, do not use XPS or EPS foam directly behind the foil, as they will melt at sauna temps! 

Vapor control in an interior sauna is really important especially, in modern tight houses. These structures tend to trap moisture. Vapor can cause damage that you can see, such as peeling paint, but also damage you won’t see, like moisture condensing in a wall cavity. Radiant-foil barrier, when carefully taped at the seams, is also a perfect vapor barrier. When I build interior saunas, I think about all of that moisture and imagine where it can get to and wreak havoc. I then seal off those spaces, provide a vented path for moisture to escape. Some enthusiastic löyly action will turn ladles of water into steam, which fills the sauna and then escapes into the house—like when you forget a kettle on the stove and all your windows fog up. The best thing is to build your sauna next to a shower area and then vent that area with a decent bath fan to the outside or via the household HRV system. The sauna should also have an air intake under the heater, as per manufacturer’s instructions, and via a gap under the door so the sauna gets a healthy exchange of fresh air. Never connect the sauna directly to a mechanical ventilation system.

With careful planning of layout, insulation, ventilation, moisture control, and a heater that makes good löyly, your indoor electric sauna can feel like a wood burner on a pond’s edge and also be an integral part of your efficient home. (Read more about Radiation. Read more about building materials (including foam) at Sauna Insulation, Revisited.)

More Questions? Book a consultation with Rob >

The Science of Sauna

The Science of Sauna

Dec 1, 2015

The one thing that always comes up when people ask me questions about building saunas is “How do you insulate it?”.  Intuitively, one might think that the sauna, with it’s high temperatures, would need more insulation than a house and should be as tight as possible to conserve energy. In fact, I’ve had building inspectors give me a confused list of requirements using such logic. The reality is that a sauna is such a different beast than a living space that most energy efficiency related calculations have to be thrown out the window. R-value, the number printed on most insulation products, is the resistance to heat flow of a given material of a given thickness for a given temperature difference (delta T) between the hot and cold side of the material. Typically, in our region, delta T is assumed to be 35° F, but in a sauna, the delta T might be 165°! So, in terms of heat loss, we get some very different calculations. To really understand R-value, you need to think in terms of it’s inverse: the U-value, or coefficient of heat transmission. U-value is expressed in units of Btu/hr/sq. ft./°F, or, plainly, how much heat is lost per square foot for every 1° temperature difference. A typical sauna, with R-13 average insulation, might lose 4000 Btus per hour (or 1200 watts). But, a typical sauna stove generates 25-40,000 Btus of heat per hour, so losing 4000 Btus is not a big deal. (It is more important if you use an electric heater: an 8 kw unit can only put out about 20,000 Btus an hour.) The other factor to consider is that, unlike a living space, you are not trying to hold the heat for very long. So, you don’t need to stack up piles of insulation in the walls and ceiling. In fact, many old saunas had no insulation at all.

What R-factor does not measure, though, is radiant heat flow. Radiant heat is like the sun warming your face; it is the short wave radiation that you feel. At higher temperatures, short wave radiation becomes a bigger factor than convection. To contain that radiant heat, we use foil (think thermos bottle or emergency blanket), but foil, being highly conductive, only works if there is an air space between it and the heat source. The foil doesn’t have to be visible to work; it can be buried between other layers of materials. In my saunas, it is behind the cedar, with an air gap between.

Saunas are also not meant to be tight, stuffy boxes. They require airflow to move the heated air and steam and to make them comfortable. The old sauna at Podunk was the best one around because it was old and drafty and it always smelled fresh. Counter to today’s high-tech homes, ventilation has to be designed into the sauna room to let it breath passively. The trick is to do it without creating annoying drafts.

When you sit on the bench and enjoy the relaxing warmth of the sauna, you probably aren’t running all of these calculations through your head—and neither am I! What I do know, from forty years of sauna experience, is what does and doesn’t work. Mostly, you want a good pile of rocks (kiuaskivet) that are hot enough to alternately bask you in their radiant heat and make good steam (löyly) and convective heat off the heater (kiuas) to produce waves of heat that gently wash over you as you breathe in the fresh aroma of the sauna. You want air, some light, and a feeling of openness and connection to the outdoors. It’s not so much science as it is art or perhaps a melding of the two.

If you do have specific questions about designing your own sauna, feel free to give me a call or email. Or better, have me come over for a consult. If you live far away, I can do one-hour phone consults. In my sauna building classes I talk about all the science and art of saunas in greater detail.

Pouring water on the rocks.