We just finished this sweet sauna: an eight by eighteen-foot building with an ample dressing room, large hot room, and wood storage on one end, all on a 12×20 raised deck. The site is near a cabin and a nice pond, all on a remote hilltop in the Finger Lakes.
The design and the craftsmanship were driven by the concept: a weekend retreat from the bustle of life, removed from technology and the stress of the 21st century. Nestled in nature, the sauna has windows to let the light in and open the view to the woods and pond.
We kept it simple, yet well crafted and elegant. The sauna functions as a centerpiece to the family gathering place and also serves as the bath house—since they are eschewing modern conveniences like running water.
Henry David Thoreau may have had his pond, but what he really needed was a sauna.
If the heart of the sauna is the kiuas, or sauna heater, then the soul is the rocks.
—Rob Licht
Every brand of heater I’ve installed has a different approach to the rocks. Some, like a wall hanging 6 or 8 kilowatt unit, use less- maybe 40 pounds, and some, like the Harvia Cilindro or Club heaters use more— up to 200 pounds. Wood burners vary too, Kuuma’s heater takes 150 pounds or so, but you have to provide your own. My own custom built stoves ( Lämpimämpi ) take a similar amount and like the Kuuma stove, the rocks are piled on top, mounded as high as you can. The Harvia Legend, an elegant wood burner from Finland, basically has a cage that surrounds the stove. By the time you are finished loading it, you won’t see the stove. There is even an optional cage that surrounds the stove-pipe to hold even more rocks.
The Finnish and Swedish heaters use Olivine Diabase or Peridotite, igneous rock found in Scandinavia. All of the rocks I have used that come with the electric heaters look the same: grayish chunks, some flatter, some chunky, all in the size range you’d find in a bag of potatoes. These are amazingly cheap considering that they come all the way from some quarry in Finland or Sweden. The UPS driver has stopped asking what is in the boxes (“yup, rocks”). Once I found a note in one from a young Swede hoping that I was happy with my rocks.
My favorite rocks are hand selected glacial erratics: various igneous granitic and metamorphic stones that I find in places where glacial melt-waters sluiced out potato sized rocks. (shown below) These are heavier and denser than our native shale, which is worthless for the sauna since it tends to explode when heated. They have a crystalline structure that you can usually see and a solidity and heft that is evident when you pick them and bang them together (they are not easy to chip.)
Lämpimämpi with Glacial Erratic RocksLämpimämpi with Jagged Olivine Diabase Rocks
A big consideration when selecting a heater is the rock capacity. The more rocks, the longer you should let your sauna heat up. Clients always ask:” how long should we let it heat up?” While I usually say “about 45 minutes” I really want to answer with the same sort of retort I give when someone asks how long will take for paint to dry (as long as it takes). The correct answer should always be: the sauna is ready when the rocks are hot enough to produce good löyly or steam—löyly is the soul of the sauna’s mysterious expression. And how hot is that? 450° Fahrenheit, more or less. If you want more steam, then you want more rocks.
Löyly is the soul of the sauna’s mysterious expression.
—Rob licht
If you expect several rounds or people coming and going, then more rocks are good. No one wants to pour water on the rocks expecting a stimulating burst of steam (but not too sharp) only to hear the fizzle of water barely boiling. That’s like trying to make an omelet in a pan that is barely hot. Disappointing, to say the least, but also bad for the heater. There’s Finnish saying that goes something like this: when you leave the sauna put another log on for the sauna elf or he will pee on your stove. Which means, don’t keep throwing water on the stove, especially at the end, if the rocks are not hot. The warm water will just sit on the steel stove and rust it. When you throw water on the rocks, it should all turn to steam and when you are done, the stove should dry quickly. When I finish eating my omelet, I rinse my cast iron skillet and let it dry over the flame, I don’t let it languish all wet in the dish rack; same principle applies to the sauna stove.
Jagged rocks will catch and momentarily hold more water, allowing less to get past the rocks and into the heater. The dense roundish rocks I use produce a nice soft steam but they have to be hot. I’m not so worried about water getting down to my stove, which is always very hot (and mine have 3/8” steel plate on top so they will never rust out). By the way, always use clean water and be wary of city water with chlorine or even country water with minerals or methane. We use only use filtered water for löyly at home. Spring water or distilled water might be prudent in some cases. Never use pool water or worse, let some disrespecting novice wring out their bathing suit over the rocks, as I have seen happen in a gym. Pleasant smells should emanate from the rocks. Special sauna oils or even Sauna Brew can be added to the löyly water for aromatic effect. Heck, we used to add beer to the water (cheap lager was always best).
Custom Sauna with Harvia Cilindro with carefully placed olivine rocks.
If your electric heater comes with the grey jagged olivine rocks, I suggest using them. They are selected to fit between and around the elements. When setting the stones first I rinse them, then I take care to arrange the rocks one by one. It can take me 45 minutes to fill a large capacity heater. For the Cilindro, I place large rocks at the bottom to hold up the others and then work a flattish layer against the cage wall. I then backfill the rocks against the elements with smaller and irregular rocks. On the smaller wall-mounted units I try to fit the flat stones between the elements without forcing or bending them. The goal is loosely fill the cage so there is good airflow and to completely conceal the elements. Lastly, I top off the heater with larger stones and try to arrange them so they will catch water and force it inward, not splashing it out. In Finland there might a “spirit stone” placed here: a special stone or stones from a favorite place (make sure it is igneous or metamorphic—test it in a campfire first if not sure). The top might even have a layer of more decorative stones, which in Finland you can buy from sauna dealers, but here in the US, I have only seem the same dull grey stones. The Harvia web page has a good section on stones and how to place them into the pillar.
Once you have the sauna going and have been using it for a year or so, expect the stones to settle and flake off. You should remove them, vacuum out the heater and replace the rocks loosely, discarding the broken ones and adding more if needed. Failure to do so will cause the heater to eventually overheat and lead to the elements failing.
Care in selecting and placing the rocks will ensure that your sauna…. Rocks!
